Education and career

Michail Michailov has been a teaching "Theory and Methodology of Sports Training" in the Department of "Theory of Sports" since 2001. He received the educational and scientific degree "Doctor" in 2006, the scientific degree "Doctor of Sciences" in 2020 and the academic position "professor" in 2023. He is the head of the "Theory and Methodology of Sports Training" sector at the "Theory of Sports" department.

Professor Michailov is actively engaged in research and scientific support in the training of athletes and is recognized as an expert in the field of sports training and physiology of rock climbing. He has published a number of scientific articles, many of which in renowned international journals. He has a key role in the development of an innovative research equipment and is has created a methodology for the assessment of aerobic and anaerobic capacity at the peripheral level.

Professor Michailov has extensive experience as a coach in sport climbing and mountaineering and as a specialist responsible for the scientific support of the training of elite athletes. He was an associate in the Directorate of Control and Management of Sports Preparation at the Ministry of Physical Education and Sports in Bulgaria and a member of the medical commission at the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA). Professor Michailov is one of the leading Bulgarian alpinists.

Fields of interest

• Theory and methodology of sports training.
• Scientific support in elite sport.
• Sports-specific physiological tests and performance evaluation.
• Sport-specific training methodology for rock climbers.

Specializations / work abroad

• Keynote speaker at conferences: IMOSC 2018 and 2020 in Prague, Czech Republic; BMC Climbing Injuries Symposium 2016 in Manchester, UK.
• Organizer of a scientific and applied seminar on the island of Kalymnos, Greece, 2017.
• Work and specialization at the Academy of Physical Education and Sports in Krakow, Poland, Department of Sports Medicine, 2010 – 2011.
• Lecturer at the course for acquiring the specialty "sports physician" organized by the Association of the Bavarian Sports Physicians, "Sport Climbing and Running", 2009, 2011 and 2013.
• Specializations through Erasmus+ program (teaching mobility) in: the Sports Faculty of Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic; the Academy of Physical Education and Sports in Krakow, Poland; the Sports University in Cologne, Germany.

Other skills and experience

• Management of research projects at the National Sports Academy, Sofia, Bulgaria, and of an international Erasmus project.
• Testing elite athletes, performance evaluation and methodological advice.
• Reviews of articles for high ranked scientific journals.
• Guest editor of the international publisher Frontiers (preparation of a research topic).
• Working on an international project for the creation of a European system for training of sport climbing coaches.
• Member of the jury of the Bansko Film Fest international festival, 2009.
• Member of the management board of the Bulgarian Climbing and Alpinism Federation, 2007 – 2009.

Foreign languages

English, German, Russian and Polish

Sports activity

Professor Michailov is dedicated to rock climbing and alpinism. He also enjoys skiing, tennis, swimming and running.

Sports achievements:

• The first ascent of peak Levski (altitude: 5733 m; wall hight: 650 m) in Khane Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan, 2012.
• Trango nameless tower (altitude: 6257 m; wall hight: 1200 m), Slovenian Route, Pakistan, 1998.
• El Capitan, California, 2007 through the legendary "The Nose" (1070 m route).
• Mount Lenin (7134) m, Pamir, 2004.
• National Ice Climbing Champion in 1998; national climbing champion in 2008 (winter) and 2009 (winter and summer championships).

Coaching activity

Sport climbing groups and courses in alpinism at the Alpine clubs "Edelweiss" and "Planinets".

Publications

Books

1. Michailov ML, Andonov H. Theory and methodology of sports training (in Bulgarian). Sofia: NSA Press 2022.
2. Michailov M. Foundations of training and testing sport-specific muscle strength and endurance in rock climbing (in Bulgarian). Sofia: Bolid Ins 2022.
3. Michailov ML. Totally Devoted - Foundations of training for physical qualities in climbing (in Bulgarian). Sofia: Walltopia; 2008.

Articles

Articles in English

1. Saeterbakken AH, Stien N, Pedersen H, Langer K, Scott S, Michailov ML, Gronhaug G, Baláš J, Solstad TEJ, Andersen V. The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention. Sports Med Open. 2024 Jan 19;10(1):10. doi: 10.1186/s40798-024-00677-w. PMID: 38240903; PMCID: PMC10798940.
2. Michailov ML, Baláš J. Reliability and validity of various force-time indicators for the assessment of finger and shoulder girdle strength in climbing. Journal of Applied Sports Sciences.;1:3-14. doi: 10.37393/JASS.2023.01.1
3. Andersen V, Hermans E, Vereide V, Stien N, Paulsen G, Baláš J, Michailov ML, Pedersen H, Saeterbakken AH. Comparison of finger flexor resistance training, with and without blood flow restriction, on perceptional and physiological responses in advanced climbers. Sci Rep. 2023 Feb 25;13(1):3287. doi: 1038/s41598-023-30499-x. PMID: 36841900; PMCID: PMC9968301.
4. Andersen V, Baláš J, Michailov ML, Saeterbakken AH. Editorial: Training and testing in climbing. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 2022; Aug 17;4:1006035; https://doi.org/10.3389/fspor.2022.1006035
5. Maciejczyk M, Bawelski M, Więcek M, Szygula Z, Michailov ML, Vadašová B, Kačúr P, Pałka T. Acute Effects of Whole-Body Vibration on Resting Metabolic Rate and Substrate Utilisation in Healthy Women. Biology 2022; Apr 24;11(5):655; https://doi.org/10.3390/biology11050655
6. Maciejczyk M, Michailov M, Więcek M, Szymura J, Rokowski R, Szygula Z, Beneke R. Climbing specific exercise tests: energy system contributions and relationships with sport performance Frontiers in Physiology 2022; Jan 24;12:787902; https://doi.org/10.3389/fphys.2021.787902
7. Rokowski R, Michailov M, Maciejczyk M, Więcek M, Szymura J, Draga P, Trendafilov P, Szygula Z. Muscle strength and endurance in high-level rock climbers. Sports Biomech. 2021 May 3; Online ahead of print. https://doi.org/10.1080/14763141.2021.1916577
8. Michailov ML, Baláš J, Tanev SK, Andonov HS, Kodejška J, Brown L. Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing. Res Q Exerc Sport. 2018 Jun; 89(2):246-254.
9. Staszkiewicz R, Rokowski R, Michailov M, Ręgwelski T, Szygula Z. Biomechanical Profile of the Muscles of the Upper Limbs in Sport Climbers. Pol. J. Sport Tourism 2018; 25: 10-15. DOI: 10.2478/pjst-2018-0002.
10. Michailov M, Rokowski R, Ręgwelski T, Staszkiewicz R, Szygula Z, Brown L. Physiological Responses During Two Climbing Tests with Different Hold Types. International Journal of Sports Science & Coaching 2017; 12(2): 276–283.
11. Michailov M, Lambreva S, Deneva D, Andonov H. Importance of elbow flexor muscle strength and endurance in sport climbing. Journal of Applied Sports Sciences 2017; 1: 3-12.
12. Rokowski R, Staszkiewicz R, Maciejczyk M, Szygula Z, Michailov M, Szymura J, Wiecek M, Ręgwelski T. Body build, strength and endurance performance in elite sport and alpine climbers – a pilot study. Antropomotorika. JKES 79(27): 31-39.
13. Baláš J, Michailov ML, Giles D, Kodejška J, Panáčková M, Fryer F. Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. EJSS 2016; 16(7):764-772.
14. KodejškaJ, Michailov ML, Baláš J. Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers. Acta Universitatis Carolinae Kinanthropologica 2015; 51( 2): 48-45.
15. Michailov ML, Morrison A, Ketenliev MM, Pentcheva BP. A Sport-Specific Upper-Body Ergometer Test for Evaluating Submaximal and Maximal Parameters in Elite Rock Climbers. Int J Sports Physiol Perform. 2015;10(3):374–380.
16. Michailov ML. Workload characteristic, performance limiting factors and methods for strength and endurance training in rock climbing. Med Sport 2014; 18 (3): 97-106.
17. Michailov M, Pentcheva B, Bonova I, Boyanov B, Jeynov B, Mateev G, Stefanova D. High peak oxygen consumption in rock climbing? In: 9th FIEP European Congress, 7th International Scientific Congress “Stress Sport Adaptation”. Congress Proceedings; 2014: 95-101.
18. Boyanov D, Petkov N, Michailov M. Bulgarian Karakoram expedition 2012. Khane Valley – Big Walls Project Phase ІІ. Japanese Alpine News 2013; 14: 91-96.
19. Petkov N, Boyanov D, Michailov M. Bulgarian Khane valley expedition 2011 – Pakistan. First phase Karakoram big walls project 2011/12, Tagas group (supplemented by Tsuneo Miyamori). Japanese Alpine News 2012; 13: 30-47.
20. Damjanova R, Groshev O, Jordanov P, Michailov M. International standards for testing and tests used as didactic and psyho-diagnostic tools. APES 2011; 1: 23-28.
21. Michailov ML, Mladenov LV, Schoeffl VR. Anthropometric and strength characteristics of world-class boulderers. Med Sport 2009; 13 (4): 231-238.
22. Stanković D, Joksimović A, Raković A, Michailov M, Piršl P. Metric characteristics of the sport climbing-specific strength tests. Facta Universitatis 2009; 7 (2): 161-169.
23. Michailov ML. Evolvement and experimentation of a new interval method for strength endurance development. In: Moritz FE, Haake S, ed. The Engineering of Sport 6, Volume 2. Development for disciplines. New York: Springer Science and Business Media; 2006: 291-296.

Articles in Bulgarian

1. Michailov M, Baláš J, Kodejška J. Local muscle aerobic capacity diagnostics. Sports and Science 2017; 1: 40-55.
2. Michailov M, Baláš J, Kodejška J. Index for the assessment of local muscle aerobic capacity. Sports and Science 2017; Special issue 1: 33-46.
3. Michailov M, Andonov X, Deneva D, Lambreva S, Groshev O, Yordanov P. Duration of isometric muscle contractions at given intensity in athletes practicing different sports. Sports and Science 2017; Special issue 1: 179-192.
4. Michailov ML, Rogleva G. Motivation of sport climbers and alpinists. In: Personality, Motivation, Sport, Volume 17. Sofia: NSA Press; 2012: 90-100.
5. Boyanov D, Michailov M, Petkov N. Bulgarian exploratory expedition “Karakorum 2011”. Sport & Science 2011; 6: 159-166.
6. Michailov М, Dobrev K, Groshev O, Yordanov P, Mladenov L. Physical fitness of children practicing different sports. Sport & Science 2011; 1: 93‐108.
7. Bachev B, Yordanov P, Tacov A, Groshev O, Michailov M, Andonov. Apparatus methodology for studying the jumping endurance in sport. In: Yearbook of the Technical University in Varna; "Modern technologies of training, monitoring and evaluation in physical education and sport in the educational system. Varna Technical University - Varna; 2011: 92-95.
8. Michailov M, Krastev L, Seliminski S, Groshev O, Jordanov P. Comparative analysis of immediate adaptation changes during training and competition in elite soccer players. Sport & Science 2010, special edition; “Sport, Stress, Adaptation – Olympic Sport and Sport for All”: 144-148.
9. Damyanova R, Michailov M. Projection of the physical load and physiological responses during training and competition in golf. Sport & Science 2009, special edition; 1: 135-142.
10. Michailov M, Krastev L. Training for sport-specific strength in climbing. Sport & Science 2008, special edition; 1: 15-20.
11. Mladenov L, Michailov M. Characteristics of high altitude climbers and the Influence of an expedition on the anthropometric variables. Sport & Science 2007, special edition; 4: 83-90.
12. Michailov M. Study of some of the major factors of performance in climbing. Sport & Science 2006, special edition; 2: 11-20.
13. Michailov M. Antropometric and sport-specific indicators of elite climbing competitors (boys and girls). In: Davidov D (eds). Scientific conference of young sport researchers. Sofia: Tiptoppress; 2005: 169-76.
14. Michailov ML. What motivates people to climb? In: Personality, Motivation, Sport, Volume 10. Sofia: c/o Jusautor Sofia; 2005: 97-99.
15. Michailov M. Presentation of the climbing discipline Deep water soloing. Sport & Science 2004, special edition; 3.
16. Michailov M. From Everest to Mallorca. In: Federation of Bulgarian Alpine Clubs. 75 years. Veliko Tarnovo: Faber; 2004.
17. Michailov M, Dasheva D, Mladenov L. Lactate, heart rate and exertion subjective scales as criteria for physical load during climbing. Sport & Science 2004, special edition; 1: 58-69.
18. Michailov M. Heart rate as an intensity indicator in climbing. Sports and Science 2004; 1.
19. Michailov M. Difficulties controlling the training load in sport climbing. In: Sports, Society, Education, Volume 8. Sofia: Tiptoppres; 2002: 253-258.
20. Michailov M, Mladenov K Dasheva E. Short term Adaptation during sport climbing. Sports and Science 2001, special edition; 56-59.
21. Michailov M, Dasheva E. Characteristics of the workload in climbing. Sports and Science 2001; application to issue 5: 44-50.
22. Michailov M, Dasheva E. Evolvement and experimentation of a new interval method for sport-specific strength endurance development in climbing. Sports and Science 2001; 5: 89-97.